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Viñales & Cayo Jutías

#Day 2 Departure at 7.30 am in order to get the bus for Viñales in time I get a bicitaxi in the street for just a couple of blocks: the bus will leave the hotel almost 1 hour late. The bus makes one stop on the highway. It gives a chance to see how all kinds of means of transport are sharing the road: auto stoppers, bicycle, horse carriages and all kinds of cars. When arriving on Viñales, the bus first stops at an hotel that has a very nice view on the valley. Then, going down to the city, the valley reveals itself. From the bus stop, I take a bicitaxi to the accommodation. The accommodation is outside the main road. Almost no traffic. From the patio, there is a nice view on the mountains. Quick lunch before going horseback riding (25 CUC). The tour goes through the national park and stops at a cigar factory, a grotto and a coffee/plant garden. The cigar factory was interesting as I had someone just for me to explain how cigars are being made. Leaves, scissors, leaves, scissors, etc. There are also some nice viewpoints on the way. The tobacco fields are all empty as they are only being planted right now. They show their red color, which is even better at sunset! The horse that wasn't doing much at first can actually move! The tour is too much organized to go anywhere else. It is nice though. There is a long discussion with Mayito, the son of the casa owner. He knows some things about the Internet, but not everything. Looks like Cuba is 15 years behind. Yet, they have the latest music, video games and movies. Mayito has a business of bike repair. Bike is the cheapest way for people in Cuba to travel short to medium distances. It is also cheaper than a horse. He says there are three people working in the same business in town but claims he's the best at it. Changing parts, with the new parts coming from China, to straightening wheels, he's busy every day of the week. #Day 3 There is absolutely no noise outside. No cars, no busses, no machines, before daylight, only animals, wind and rain. At 7, the mogotes (isolated steep-sided residual hills) start to turn orange. At 9, a taxi comes to pick me up to go to Cayo Jutías. It is a shared cab and there are already 4 tourists (plus the driver). It takes about 1h30 to go to the Cayo. Driving in Cuba is special. Each side of the road is preferred to the road itself. There can be a strip for one car and each side would be soil. Being on the left with a car going the other way around on the right looks fine. On each bump, the car shakes and makes a metallic noise. Sometimes you’ve got the feeling the car is going to break apart. Yet, you feel safe. Only tourists who rented a car stay on the road. Arriving at the beach, it looks nice but touristic. Most of the people here came with a cab. The beach itself is nice but you need to walk a little bit South to find some room. It is also where the drivers spend the day. When arriving on the Cayo, there is a lighthouse made of metal. if it is short way to go there by car, it took me about 2 hours back and forth to go there from the beach. That said, it is much better than the beach! On the way, a truck of dustmen proposed to pick me up. I refused thinking it would be much closer. The first part of the beach looks like Bahia Honda State Park in the Florida keys. The second half is more like Mauritius. One mojito and one daiquiri before going back to Viñales and a 15 CUC ride #Day 4 I'm waken up by the machine used to crush the coffee, a Manual machine. With the15 CUC for the day bike I go to the bus office in the centre to get the ticket for the transfer to Cienfuegos for the next day. Then, I exit Viñales through the main road and go up North. Crossing the Republica de Chile, an agricultural area, before arriving at the crossing going back to Viñales. The road goes up and down, the streets are sometimes almost inexistent. Very few tourists. I get to talk with a couple of Cubans living in the area. Lawn mowers are made from salvaged parts. One I saw was made from the motor of a washing machine, the blade of a knife and a telephonic line, all being supported by a plate and wheels made of wood. Rice is being cultivated here. All the field labour is done by hand. Tractors are seen on the roads but never in the fields. Bulls are everywhere! Back to Viñales after 20 km and a break at the house for lunch. In the afternoon, going West of Viñales, passing in front of the "prehistoric wall". It looks ugly as shit from far away. A bit further, there is a viewpoint (*mirador*), which gives a view on two valleys. There is the *valle del silencio* there. Very quiet and lovely. Carlos, who leaves nearby, is getting his rice covered for the night. Apparently the sunset is very nice from the mirador but I go back home. On the way, I meet Felid (?) who's bringing back a bottle of vodka to mix it with Coca-Cola. Says rum is good, but Vodka works too.

La Havane (1/2)

#Day 1 The accommodation is an apartment stuck between two apartments. There is not much light inside at any time of the day. There is no sound from the streets but a lot from the different apartments all around. The day starts with a walk on the Malecón, just a couple of blocks down the street. No much wind but the sidewalk is wet because the waves splash from time to time… and I get showered. A fisherman comes to me and talks about cigars. Blahblahblah. Continuing on the Malecón, another fisherman comes and talks about music, etc, writes down places where to listen to live music then asks for milk. Blahblahblah. Talking with Martha later, she says that the government is paying for milk for children until they are 7 years old. Crossing central Havana, I find a shop that sells rum with a citation from the Pope. The owner declares afterwards that the pope only drinks wine, not rum. Is he? I get the ticket for the transfer to Viñales at an hotel in Parque Central. It costs 14 CUC with Cubanacan, which is an hotel-to-hotel transfer. One more person asking for money in a square. Near the citadel, another person comes and says that France and Cuba are friends, but when refusing to give money, it looks like the friendship isn’t so strong. In the old town, someone comes up asking why I'm taking a picture of a graffiti… then asks for milk! Going to a bar in a street that looks nice but when asking if it's possible to eat, I am redirected to a paladar, which is most likely hold by a family member or a friend. It's much more expensive than what I was expecting but the view on the street & roofs is worthwhile and the first mojito in Cuba makes things nicer. In central Habana, when wanting to take a picture I'm asked why. After talking with the owner - who gets me a *free* orange - I take the picture. Near the Capitol, someone asks if I'm interested in Salsa. After declining, I am again asked for milk. After declining once more, looks like she's fine with it. The train station building is being renovated. The station is open though. Lots of people and bicycle-taxis (bicitaxis) as a train has just arrived. From there, walking along the waterfront, I stop at a bar which has good mojitos and ice creams: the mojito tastes very sour after the ice cream! Overall, after a day filled with walks and no visits in Havana, the city - from Central Havana to Havana Vieja - almost looks the same everywhere When coming from Central Havana, a large road has to be crossed to enter *vieja Havana*. While the streets change from perpendicular intersections to a messier layout, buildings look almost the same. Everything is crumbling. Areas are really dense. It is very oppressing. Despite the rant on the milk-people, Cubans are nice. One last shower on the Malecón before going back home right after sunset. [+ de photos](https://www.flickr.com/search/?tags=cuj1)

Cuba, prologue

Leaving home at 4.20 am for the S-Bahn but misses the train by 1 minute. It is snowing lightly outside and therefore not very cold. In 20 hours it will be 30°C. The plane for Paris is on time despite the snow. In Paris, getting out of the plane followed by a fast border crossing. The agent asks me to think of him when I'll be smoking a cigar. The plane for Havana is delayed. No exciting movies to watch nevertheless, I choose * Self/less* with Ben Kingsley. An hour before arriving in Cuba, we fly over the Bahamas. It looks like a nice place to go to... The plane arrives on time. The queue for the immigration goes well even though there isn’t much indication. The visa document that I stapled on the passport is removed so the immigration agent can take the non-stapled part. I'll staple it back on the passport… more than a week later! Right after immigration, there is a hand luggage check! I Pick up the luggage and pass the customs handling the paper filled in the plane : first and last names are switched but no one cares. Outside, there is a queue to withdraw money. It takes about thirty minutes to reach the counter. 1 CUC being almost equals to 1 Euro, I end up with 153 CUC. The cab to Havana is 25 CUC flat rate. On arrival, the driver has – of course – no change, ending up giving 30 CUC for the ride. Getting the keys for the accommodation (casa particular), going for dinner (7 CUC) and talking schedule with Martha (a friend’s friend). Though I'm not staying at Martha's she helps me build my 3-week schedule.